Andalucia: A traveller's guide

Set back from the tourist honey-pots of the Costa del Sol, the beautiful white villages of Andalucia remain a world apart, almost untouched by tourism, and seemingly unchanged for centuries. Headwater’s MD, Catherine Crone, takes a closer look.

You don’t just visit Andalucia for the splendour of the pinky-gold sierras, the shimmering views of the Mediterranean, or the stunning cathedrals of the great art cities. A stay here offers so much more! Home to flamenco, sherry, tapas and toreros, Andalucia is a hot and passionate flurry of colour, high spirits and theatrical effervescence.

No other region in Spain conjures up the same alluring mix of romance and beauty as Andalucia. Hidden white-washed hamlets and orange groves scented with almond blossom perfectly complement the beautiful cities, dramatic landscapes and majestic mountain ranges.

Andalucia has been conquered and re-conquered over the years, with each new civilisation further enriching its fascinating cultural heritage. Today, cities such as Seville, Córdoba and Granada offer an unforgettable fusion of Moorish and Christian architecture, with their respective Alcazar, Mezquita and Alhambra Palaces sparkling like jewels in the historic Spanish crown. If possible, spend a few days in each and you’ll discover Gothic cathedrals, Moorish mansions, flower-filled gardens and elegant Baroque plazas lined with lively bars and cafés.

Life in the countryside operates at a much slower pace. In the eastern corner of Andalucia, against the looming backdrop of the imposing Sierra Nevada mountain range, are the hidden fertile valleys and white villages known collectively as Las Alpujarras. People here live in distinctive cubeshaped, flat-roofed, Berber-style dwellings and mules and goats roam freely. It’s an exceptionally fertile land too with orange groves, chestnuts, bananas and avocados. The rich variety of its produce – including almonds, garlic, fennel and honey – gives the region one of the healthiest diets in Western Europe.

Food and wine

The cuisine in Andalucia reflects the region’s history and climate, with many dishes dating back to both Muslim and Christian times: the Moors were responsible for introducing spices such as cumin and saffron, whilst pork, one of the most emblematic of the region’s meat dishes, was one of the few changes to be implemented by the Christian settlers after the expulsion of the Moors in the 1600’s.

Andalucia’s signature dish is undoubtedly gazpacho, the king of summer soups, made from vine-ripened tomatoes, peppers, onions, garlic (lots!) and olive oil. It is usually served well chilled, with oil-infused croutons. You’ll find tapas everywhere too: tapas means “lids” since they started out as little saucers of complimentary nibbles served with a drink. Favourites include garlic prawns, chorizo sausage cooked in red wine, albondigas (meatballs in tomato sauce) and, of course, the famous Spanish tortilla.

Plants and flowers

Andalucia, with its varied terrain and year-round Mediterranean climate, is blessed with some of the richest and most varied natural beauty in Western Europe. Of the 8,000 different plant species known in Spain, over 5,000 can be found in Andalucia, with 152 existing nowhere else in the world. This abundance is largely due to the fact that the last Ice Age saw relatively warm temperatures here, allowing plants that were killed off further north to continue to thrive.

In spring, the rich green woods and meadows are ablaze with wild narcissi, peonies, irises, lavender and bright yellow mimosa blossom. In autumn, the open fields sparkle with glorious ripe fruits, aromatic herbs and wonderfully rich russet colours.

Birds and butterflies

A magnet for bird watchers all year round, this is one of the few places in Europe where you will find the Spanish Imperial Eagle, Black-shouldered Kite, White-headed Duck and Purple Gallinule – easily recognised by its long red legs and metallic blue-purple plumage. For keen ornithologists, March and April, when flocks of migrating birds are en route to, or from, North Africa, are particularly good months to visit.

Butterfly enthusiasts are not forgotten either, with many of the ones here existing only in Southern Spain and Africa. Interesting species include the Desert Orange Tip, the Spanish Fritillery and Mediterranean Skippers.

Local colour

Whether you’re on the coast or in the mountains, everyone places serious importance on celebrating national and local fiestas. This is a region whose soul exudes the urge to live life to the full! In spring, many villages hold their Romeria, a pilgrimage where an ox cart carries the Virgin Mary to the local country shrine.

Music, dancing, food, wine and fireworks are all on offer – sleep tends to the only thing they skimp on! Holy Week (Semana Santa) is widely celebrated – in Seville, it is classed as the greatest festival of the Andalucian calendar and is marked by costume parades, lots of flamenco, bullfighting, eating and drinking lasting the full week.

Best foot forward in Andalucia

Highlights of Andalucia : This guided walking and sightseeing holiday is a great choice for people looking for an introduction to Andalucia. You’ll stay in the three classic cities of Seville, Granada and Córdoba but also spend time in the mountains and the Cazorla National Park. The walking is very gentle – no challenging ascents or descents – and includes rambles through olive groves and poppy-lined orchards.

Secrets of Andalucia : If the idea of spending a week in a luxury 200-year old converted olive mill – with gorgeous private swimming pool – appeals, then a stay at Sue & Gordon’s Finca El Cerrillo, on the edge of the Tejeda National Park, could be just what you’re looking for. A holiday here really is quite special. With just 10 bedrooms, the atmosphere is informal and homely – there’s a lovely beamed lounge (with open fire) and panoramic terrace for al fresco dining. The guided walking takes you into the National Park and many paths link the gorgeous white villages and pretty villages that surround it.

Hidden Valleys of Córdoba : Situated mid-way between Córdoba and Granada, the tiny white village of Zuheros – where this 7-night independent holiday is based – provides an opportunity to step back in time and discover the “real” Spain. It’s an area of outstanding natural beauty with river valleys, tumbling waterfalls, mountain sierras and hillsides sprinkled with red peonies and orchids forming the backdrop to the walks.

Secret Valleys of Ronda : Your base for this week is gorgeous Cartajima, the highest village in Andalucia's scarcely known Alto Genal, a region of seven white timeless Moorish villages clinging limpet-like to the verdant hillsides, their churches and alleyways rich with history and charm. Your accommodation is a 7-room boutique villa-hotel which ash been exquisitely designed in keeping with North African influences with open terraces, hidden roof gardens and fountain-clad courtyards.