Self-guided walking
12 nights,
hotel-to-hotel
Level: 2
Moderate
14.0Kg CO2e
One of the most ancient walking routes in the world, the Spanish Camino de Santiago is popular with walkers from all over the world, who come to follow in the footsteps of travellers from the 9th century onwards. The 800km journey across northern Spain has led thousands of pilgrims on a winding route from the Pyrenees across the wheat fields of old Castile to pass through Leon, the seat of Spanish Kings, full of soaring cathedrals and hushed convents, before entering Galicia. As you reach Santiago de Compostela's majestic Baroque cathedral, your route comes to a spectacular finale at the resting place of the Apostle St James.
On this 12-night trip, you'll begin your walking in Leon - you'll spend two nights here, giving you ample chance to explore the historic city and its fabulous architecture. From here, in keeping with the pilgrimage route, you'll walk daily along farm tracks, paths and country lanes, enjoying sociable lunches in restaurants en route. Remember to have your Pilgrim Passport stamped in bars, hotels and churches along the way to qualify for a certificate from the official Pilgrim Office in Santiago. After you've reached your journey's end, you'll spend two nights in UNESCO-listed Santiago de Compostela so you can explore the city's old town, and its Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque buildings. You can even choose to attend the special Pilgrim Mass at 12 noon.
You'll stay in an astonishingly diverse range of properties including restored parish houses, converted water mills and stylish farmhouses, all of them packed with period features. We have included transfers after breakfast on the first three walking days, after which you'll walk all the way to Santiago. The sense of achievement on arrival is immense, and sharing in this tradition is incredibly rewarding.
Along with your Pilgrim Passport you'll notice a profound and heart-warming camaraderie with other walkers, as day by day you fall in and out of step with people from all over the world, some of whom have been walking for months covering hundreds of miles! You'll also find complete strangers cheering you on and wishing you 'Buen Camino!' ('Enjoy your walk!').
Walks on this holiday are on village streets, country lanes, farm tracks and rural paths. Walking boots are essential. Walking poles are recommended.
Read more about this holiday in Stumpy's Blog.
After arriving at your historic hotel in the heart of Leon, head out for dinner in one of the many restaurants and tapas bars on your doorstep.
You stay at Posada Regia.
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The Posada Regia is perfectly located in the centre of Leon, just off the main (largely pedestrian) street and around a five minute walk from the impressive central cathedral. The hotel has two buildings on adjacent streets.
The main building is where the restaurant and bars are located. Once inside you enter the world of 'old Leon' as even part of the original Roman city wall has been incorporated into the structure of the new building. The atmosphere is rustic with lots of timber and tile floors, and this building is next to a lively square where it is pleasant to sit out for drinks of an evening. The second building (where Headwater rooms are located) is 20m down a quieter street. Bedrooms are attractive with bold colours and smart new bathrooms.
Today, you are free to explore Leon which is famous for its historical and architectural heritage, perhaps visit the Casa Botines, a creation of the famous Antoni Gaudi or the Museum of Contemporary Art (MUSAC) which is also is a superb example of modern architecture.
Your day starts with a guided tour of Leon's magnificent gothic Cathedral which is often called the 'House of Light' and a visit to the Basilica of San Isidoro, one of the most important Romanesque churches in Spain and resting place of Leon's mediaeval monarchs. You will then receive your pilgrims passport at the local albergue. A one-hour transfer takes you to Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on the Camino, marked by a pre-Roman cross where you start your walk. The Camino winds downhill through fragrant pines where the Knights Templar once protected pilgrims from bandit attack. A path lined with wild chestnuts, cherries, peppers and fennel leads to riverside Molinaseca.
You stay at Hotel El Palacio.
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El Palacio is perfectly located on the banks of the river in Molinaseca and in a restored building that was formerly known as the Casona de Don Pelegrin. Recently renovated the modern rooms offer flat screen TVs and WiFi access.
After a short transfer (30 mins), you ascend the Rio Valcarce valley, climbing into moody oak woods strung with lichen and strewn with early purple orchid. Reaching O Cebreiro, an 11th century village in the heart of the Cordillera Cantabrica, you can walk to the viewpoint above the village for a perfect sunset and views over four ranges of hills. You'll then return along the narrow, cobbled streets, past traditional thatched houses known as pallozas.
You stay at Hotel O Cebreiro.
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The Valina family have run much of the accommodation in O Cebreiro for generations, and the village certainly looks like time has stood still. With amazing views in all directions, this tiny place is one of the most charming on the Camino. There are rooms in three different buildings, each just 20m apart and made from the heavy, grey stone typical to this area.
One building is an 11th century monastery and is actually connected to the little church next door so the monks could walk directly between their rooms and their pews! Rooms are light and more spacious than you would suspect in such small 2 storey buildings.
The main restaurant is next to the cafe and bar, often filled with characters from the village. English is in short supply but there are so many nationalities passing though here you will always find someone to help!
Today begins with a short transfer to Triacastela. You'll hear the Monastery of Samos's bells ringing as you meander between the heather-clad villages that overlook it. On reaching Sarria, the antiques capital of Galicia, you'll be whisked to Javier and Raquel's elegant country rectory (10 mins), complete with chapel and al fresco dining patio area.
You stay at Rectoral de Goian.
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A rectoral in Spain is the equivalent of a parsonage in the UK. A grand home, often in a picturesque location built of attractive old stone. Such is the case with The Rectoral de Goian, just 8km from the centre of Sarria, it's a gorgeous property set in isolated countryside in landscaped gardens that are just too perfect.
The Rectoral building is horseshoe shaped - it has an open patio and balconies facing the garden so it is ideal for eating al fresco in the evening. There is even a tiny chapel in the garden that is still used!
Bedrooms are gorgeous with stone walls, beams, wooden floors and modern bathrooms, all with views on to the patio or the garden. Raquel and Javier don't speak English, so a phrase book will come in handy here too.
A walk along the Roman bridge leads you out of Sarria up the Celerio Valley, where you'll criss-cross the hamlets of the southern flank of the Sierra del Paramo. You'll then descend into Portomarin - the original village was drowned by the Belesar Reservoir, and houses still shimmer below the surface!
You stay at Casa Rural Santa Marina.
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This eco-friendly hotel is located on the banks of the Mino river. The rooms are located in the Main building and are decorated with wood panelling.
Visit Portomarin's church then follow the Torres stream passing between cornfields lined with ox-eye daisies. Stamp your Pilgrim Passport in country churches dedicated to the Order of St James before arriving at your beautifully restored rectory.
You stay at Rectoral de Lestedo.
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Set deep in the countryside directly on the Camino, on a hillside with fabulous north facing views, this ancient light stone ruin has been restored by Susana and Cesar (a local vet). The sloping garden gives all the rooms pleasant country views, and the public spaces are very effectively designed to maximise natural light and make the most of the views. The 9 bedrooms are light and spacious with black and white photos on the walls, wooden floors and some striking designer touches that you might not expect in a building of this age.
Selected departures will be staying in Casa Roan, a spectacular original walled Galician farmhouse 3km from the Camino de Santiago. (You will be picked up from Eirexe by the owners, Pilar and Jose Manuel Rodriguez Vasques). Their rambling walled farmhouse has fireplaces you could park a car in, and 8 homely bedrooms are decorated in rustic style. There is also a grand stone dining room that looks as if it could host a gathering for the entire village. Pilar and Jose Manuel don't speak English, so a phrase book will definitely come in handy. The website is www.casaroan.com
Follow country lanes leading past fortified farmhouses into the hillside town of Palas del Rei (Palace of the King) as you enter the province of A Coruna. You'll pass typical raised Galician granaries and see chickens scamper across narrow streets as you enter vineyards, with views east to the Montes del Vacaloura.
You stay at Casa de los Somoza.
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In the tiniest village of just a few houses, Jesus Cardelle's rustic country Turismo Rural is a popular stop on the Camino. The house was originally a farm, and has an old world charm about it with tiled floors and wooden beams throughout. The garden outside is always full of passing pilgrims having a drink in the sunshine, and playing Jesus' typical in house Galician skittle game. This is a simple village and a simple hotel, full of rustic charm. There is no English spoken here.
Today's first stop is Melide, a thriving country town with tavernas brimming with locals enjoying Galician seafood in specialist pulperias (octopus restaurants). Drop into the Romanesque church to admire the frescoes, before lanes lined with bright yellow celandine lead you into the lively market town of Arzua. The last stop is your elegant manor house, surrounded by tranquil countryside, just outside the town.
You stay at Pazo Santa Maria.
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Juan Manuel Duque took on this ruined Galician stately home on the outskirts of Arzua as a retirement project several years ago, and has restored it to it's former glory using original materials and creating an atmosphere of perfect peace and tranquillity.
Most rooms are set into the old stables around a central courtyard, with several also in the main house where the luxurious public lounges can be found on the ground floor.
The walls are solid stone, the beams and roof all ancient, and the dining rooms sports a giant fireplace and other original features. The entire complex is set in landscaped grounds on the edge of Arzua so it is around a 10 minute walk from the centre where all the shops and banks are located, as well as your onward route to Santiago.
Arzua's colonnaded streets lead into open country where local farmers wear berets as they tend vines and build haystacks with pitch forks. Your route then rises and falls through river valleys crossing rushing streams. This evening you can marvel at Javier's breathtaking converted water mill, where original machinery has been turned into spectacular period features!
You stay at O Muino de Pena.
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Just off the Camino (you will be picked up from Pension Compas which is on the Camino by Javier), can be found some of the loveliest and most unusual properties to stay in, and this is one of them.
Hidden in the backwoods and valleys this ancient mill sits next to a rushing river and weir, instantly relaxing you with the sound of running water. The bedrooms are on the top floor as you enter (you enter on the second floor as it is built on a steep hill), and all are utterly charming with beams, stone walls and dark wooden furniture.
Downstairs, much of the heart of the mill has been retained, with giant wheels and massive machinery blending perfectly with the bar and dining area and looking quite spectacular. The open riverside garden is perfect for a drink, and the entire place feels as if it is a mythical secret hideaway. Javier will drive you back to the Camino (10 minutes) in the morning.
It's an exciting time as you set off towards Monte do Gozo, the Mount of Joy, where pilgrims of old caught their first glimpse of the spires of Santiago. It is certainly busier these days! On reaching Santiago's historic centre, the atmosphere is alive with chatter as a myriad of pilgrims reach their journey's end below the cathedral's spectacular Baroque facade. Drop into the Pilgrim Office to collect your certificate, before checking into our historic hotel near the old marketplace, still a riot of colour!
You stay at Hotel Virxe da Cerca.
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Just on the edge of the historic centre in Santiago de Compostela, the Virxe da Cerca sits just below the old market - it is still used by the locals daily and is definitely worth wandering through.
Our superior rooms are in the grand old 4-storey building that backs on to an extensive garden at the back. The breakfast room overlooks the garden while the in house restaurant is on the ground floor in the depths of the building with solid stone walls and a cosy atmosphere.
It is only a 5-minute walk into the heart of the old town so it is perfect for exploring, and feels like coming back to your very own stately home in the city.
Room upgrades: Suite.
Suites offer extra space.
Extra nights: Please contact us for details.
You can choose to attend the Pilgrim Mass (at 12 noon) before exploring this beautiful city. The old town has Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque buildings and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The oldest monuments are grouped around the tomb of St James and the cathedral, which contains the remarkable Portico de la Gloria.
Enjoy Santiago and the cathedral before taking a taxi to the airport (pay locally approx 15 euro). Alternatively, stay on for extra nights to explore this beautiful historic city. Walking through the old streets of Santiago is a fantastic way to spend your time here, with Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque buildings lining the old town's streets and plazas.
If you'd like to extend your trip with extra hotel nights we recommend: Hotel Petit Palace Preciados, Madrid.
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The Hotel Petit Palace Preciados enjoys an excellent position just off the bustling Puerta del Sol Square, which is considered one of the central spots in Old Madrid. The hotel itself lies just off the pedestrian area to the north where the famous Corte Ingles department store is located. You are ideally situated for exploring all of Madrid's famous sights.
The hotel has a charming turn of century facade and many of the rooms have wrought iron balconies from which you can sit and watch the world go by.
The 75 rooms are furnished in a modern style with laminate flooring and crisp white decor. All are double glazed and air-conditioned and are equipped with mini bar, satellite television and direct dial telephone. The bathrooms are well appointed and many have hydro massage showers.
Room upgrades and extra nights: Contact us for details.
These tour only prices are based on two people sharing. Single supplement from $699.
These flight inclusive prices are based on two people sharing. Single supplement from $699.
Call now to speak to our specialist team at 0044 1606 720199 or email us at sales@headwater.com for enquiries or to book your trip.
Self-guided walking
12 nights,
hotel-to-hotel
Level: 2
Moderate
14.0Kg CO2e
