Vive la différence!

When is France not France?

Sorry - there’s no amusing punch line, but the answer is to be found on the paradise islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique. Helen Brown embarks on one of the longest domestic flights possible to find out if there really are croissants in the Caribbean!

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“There have been worse days in the office…” I thought to myself, as the plane descended beneath the clouds to reveal the exotic kaleidoscope of colour that makes up the butterfly wings of Guadeloupe’s two main islands. I’d been assigned the task of “exploring the French Caribbean”, spending 6 nights on Guadeloupe and 5 on Martinique - and I had a feeling that “work” was about to take on an altogether more pleasing meaning!

Feeling somewhat like a pioneer, my first mission was to find my way from the airport to the lovely Jardin Malanga, a 9-room hideaway nestling in the verdant hills above Trois-Rivières. I’d been to the Caribbean before and to be truthful, my expectations of the island’s roads were not high… but I soon felt like Nicole in my shiny Clio, zooming along the dual carriageway and across the bridge that links Guadeloupe’s two islands (Basse-Terre and Grande-Terre) passing an Intermarché supermarket, yellow post boxes…Hmm…this all looks familiar, I thought I was in the Caribbean?!

Both Guadeloupe and Martinique have been French départements since 1946 and anyone who’s visited France will certainly feel a sense of déjà-vu, but the backdrop of the mighty volcanic peak of La Soufrière, limpid tropical waters and swaying palms remind you you’re a long way from Normandy. Arriving at the Jardin Malanga affirmed that I was indeed in paradise; this renovated banana plantation house must surely be one of the world’s most spectacularly situated hotels (there’s more hotel information on page 12). Surrounded by acres of lush tropical gardens, with sweeping views from the infinity pool across the azure Atlantic to Dominica and Les Saintes isles - I began to wonder if perhaps I couldn’t just spend my time “exploring” the cloud formations of the French Caribbean sky prostrate from beside the pool…. However, the next morning after a “fusion” breakfast of papaya and croissants – yes, you can find them in the Caribbean! – I was raring to get to work and discover this fascinating and diverse archipelago.

Armed with the ever-efficient French IGN maps and plenty of Créole joie de vivre, I set off to uncover some of the island’s secrets on foot – with a little help from Clio to get to those hard to reach places. Guadeloupe is truly full of contrasts; from lush volcanic peaks to sugar cane fields speckled with white egrets, thundering waterfalls and idyllic palm-fringed shores - all topped with plenty of Caribbean sunshine. My favourite day was exploring Terre-de-Haut, just a short commute (with a difference!) from the hotel across the water to this tiny island with its secret paths and intoxicating views as well as a Napoleonic fort where iguanas slowly bake in the sunshine. Lunch was fresh fish and bread fruit (think exotic potato) by the softly lapping sea… But all too soon it was time to leave paradise and head for.. paradise!

A short hop on a very small plane took me to Martinique, Guadeloupe’s next-door-but-one neighbour. I was welcomed by Laurent and Joelle at my new home, Le Domaine Saint Aubin, with a local speciality – punch planteur! This potent rum cocktail is definitely best enjoyed from the hotel’s gorgeous veranda with its Atlantic views; a great place to relax too after a day’s busy exploration. Martinique is known as the island of flowers and its beautiful Balata gardens showcase this splendour – located just by the Sacre-Coeur de Balata church, a perfect replica of Paris’ Sacre-Coeur; another case of déjà vu! Five days was not enough to explore this small but perfectly formed island – its splendours ranged from eating fresh coconut on volcanic black sands, quiet whitewashed villages and hiking on the crashing Caravelle coastline. I explored as much as time allowed (a job well done, I think!) and savoured the differences that each day brought.

Both Guadeloupe and Martinique are unmistakably French, with their baguettes and boules - but it’s that tropical Creole twist of West Indian warmth and Caribbean spiciness that makes them so different from “le métropole” on the mainland, as well as their own individual histories that shouldn’t be forgotten. As for me, I’m back at my desk watching the rain streak the office window… Vive la différence, indeed!

Find out more about this holiday

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