21 gears in Provence

Headwater’s MD, Catherine Crone, and husband Phil, follow a circular route through timeless Provence. It’s almost wholly unspoilt and hardly seems to have changed in centuries.

---

Our closest friends thought that we’d finally lost the plot. Knowing our preferences most definately lie with a G&T rather than a PT (“personal trainer” for those not au fait with health club lingo!), the fact that we were choosing pedalling over paddling, and cycling maps over beach mats, raised more than a few eyebrows! Hadn’t we realised that Provence in August could be hotter than Mauritius in May? Didn’t we know that only mad dogs and French men head to the hills rather than to the sea in high summer?

Undeterred, we boarded the Eurostar at Waterloo and settled down for the 6-hour journey down to Avignon. (Given that this was the weekend that BA catering staff had caused chaos at Heathrow, we couldn’t help feel a bit smug as tucked into bucks fizz and a 3-course breakfast!)

Our first night in Provence was spent in the former Roman garrison town of St Didier. From here, it was a gloriously flat cycle out through vineyards, farming hamlets and thousand-year-old olive groves, with the jagged Dentelles de Montmirail as a dramatic backdrop.

At our next stop we were warmly welcomed by Philip and Rosemary Bonnin, a delightful couple from South Africa, whose gorgeous 8-room hotel is in the heart of the Beaumesde-Venise vineyards. Our room had its own terrace affording fabulous views over the majestic Mont Ventoux (1912m). And the food here was to die for!

Our route continued via France’s most extensive Roman site at Vaison-la-Romaine: 6000-seat theatre, baths, houses and streets, before ending up in the pretty wine village of Cairanne. Throughout, the cycling was gentle, taking in ever-changing landscapes of forests, vineyards, cherry orchards and fields ablaze with sunflowers. On some days, the temperatures topped 30oC, however there was always a slight breeze and we were never uncomfortably hot. We explored one picturesque village after another and sampled more wine degustations than is probably recommended! We took long leisurely lunches, visited all the “must see” mediaeval sites and still arrived in time for a couple of hours by the pool in the late afternoon. In the evenings, we enjoyed superb gourmet meals (7-course menus each night in Vaison!) and discovered some outstanding local wines.

We returned home happy in the knowledge that we’d experienced everything a cycling holiday in Provence ought to offer. Losing, rather than gaining, a few extra pounds would have been nice, but there’s always the PT option to fall back on!

Find out more about this holiday

---

Provence in Autumn

Our friends Fiona and Sandra flew all the way from New Zealand to find out what is so special about Headwaters trip in Provence... they went back home with the answers...!

---

Picture acres and acres of grape vines with leaves turning yellow, red, gold and brown and all the gorgeous colours of autumn - contrasted against this are still some dark purple grapes hanging on the vines, clear blue skies, quaint ancient stone and tile buildings grey and brown and hazy hills of green as a back drop - the country side of Provence in autumn was truly stunning, the colours were just out of this world.

Locals described for us the varied seasons which would also be just as stunning…..the miles and miles of blossoms, of all the acres of cherry trees in spring, the vibrant colours of the flowers and particularly fields of lavender in summer set against the vivid green of all the grape vines - stunning scenery is there to be enjoyed April-October.

Combine this with the gorgeous local wine and divine Provencal cuisine plus the chance to then cycle the calories away, a cycling tour is a unique holiday option.

We wanted a trip that allows you to slow right down and to really get a feel for the local way of life in the countryside, small villages and even the slightly busier roads and towns also visited. This trip allowed us to do just that. A truly unique way to really experience the ebb and flow of everyday life in the country you are visiting.

At the start you are given a safety briefing, riding advice, a detailed route briefing, along with a map, and day to day itinerary. Your bike is fitted out with a pannier, water-bottle holder, lock and map holder - all you need is your own helmet and water bottle.

The bikes are easy to ride and pretty comfortable, but it would be good to get a bit of training in before hand, as I hadn’t been on a bike since I was a child but managed okay; however having been a bit more prepared would have been better but it just goes to show you don’t have to be a cyclist to enjoy these style of trip.

So once you are equipped with your bike, your accommodation and breakfast daily is all taken care off, all you need to do is take care of your own lunch and dinner - plenty of lovely street side cafes or the option of picnics in the countryside.

If you want a trip where you really experience a country at street level rather than from the window of a coach, and to be able to get to the little back lanes of a village or country roads where no bus and barely even cars can reach then a cycling tour is definitely the way to go.

Find out more about this holiday

---