Contrasts of the Alentejo Cycling

• Gloriously easy cycling: coastal paths, country trails, orange groves and poppy-strewn fields
• Wild deserted beaches untouched by tourism; small coves, high cliffs, fine sand dunes
• Lovely warm climate - around 300 days of sunshine a year
• Rugged coastal castles, colourful fishing harbours, tiny white villages unchanged for centuries
• Exquisite boutique-style hotels; wonderfully friendly people

In the far south-west corner of the Iberian Peninsula between Lisbon and the Algarve is a genuine hidden treasure. The Parque Natural Sudoueste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina is the largest protected coastal Natural Park in Europe, encompassing a rolling sea of verdant hills and river valleys, and over 100km of wild and pristine beaches and coast.

This is a rural region of tiny white villages and wheat fields, the breadbasket of the nation, where ruined windmills crumble on sun-drenched hilltops, and sheepskinjacketed shepherds with silver tipped canes stride over fields full of lavender. People have lived here since Paleolithic times, but today's population is very small and you often seem to have the coast and countryside to yourself!

Our cycling holiday here begins inland with three nights in our stylish hotel nestling amid fragrant meadows of white rockrose. It's then a spin downhill towards the turquoise ocean into the Natural Park for the rest of the week. Two days are spent discovering rugged castles, wild beaches and whitewashed fishing villages near Vila Nova de Milfontes, before heading further south for your final two nights on a real smugglers' coast of steep bays and bluffs, cycling along river valleys to meet the ocean.

We were amazed by the quality of the accommodation we found miles out in the countryside. The three exclusive rural properties are all stylishly transformed into boutique hotels (two rustic, one modern, the largest with 8 rooms). Each has charismatic and enthusiastic English speaking owners who are so welcoming it is like staying with friends!