Catalunya on two wheels

Headwater's Managing Director, Catherine Crone, reports on her cycling trip to Catalunya with her husband Phil...

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I had been pushing for Spain's Catalunya to be included in our programme for quite some time, and was somewhat miffed when other work commitments meant that my co-Director, Tina James, ended up doing the local research for these holidays! She came back so excited about what she had found, it would have seemed churlish not to give this one a try - and we're very glad we did!

Day 1 Arrive at Calella de Palafrugell

Our holiday as such really started 3 days ago when we arrived in Spain to spend a long weekend in Barcelona prior to our cycling trip. I first fell in love with this city a couple of years' back when researching for Headwater's Short Stays programme, and I promised myself I would come back for pleasure rather than business at the earliest opportunity. So six of us came over to celebrate a special birthday, however the others have since headed back to the UK leaving my husband, Phil, and I to catch the short train journey north back up the coast to Calella de Palafrugell.

The Headwater reps, Jon and Catriona, meet us at the station and take us to our hotel for the night. It's in a great spot overlooking the sea and we debate having a quick stroll down to the beach before dinner. En route, however, we pass our fellow Headwater cyclists enjoying a large Spanish G&T at the poolside bar. We never get to see the sea!

Day 2 Calella de Palafrugell to l'Escala

Although none of our group claims to be regular cyclists, they have all been on many Headwater cycling holidays before, so the bikes' briefing is over fairly quickly. For people who depend heavily on a car for getting around back at home, those first few minutes always feel quite strange as you set off in the knowledge that it's just you and your two small wheels for the next 8 days or so!

The weather is glorious and it's an absolute joy to pedal along deserted tracks, through hidden hamlets and pink-tinged villages. We take time to wander round the cobbled streets of mediaeval Pals, then continue north, through sunflowers and little farming communities towards l'Escala. We have quite an impressive argument about whether to go uphill, or down, at a junction just a mile or so from the town - and I remain of the view either way would have worked!

L'Escala is a bit like an old fashioned seaside resort. There's a fairly modern stretch at the far end, otherwise it feels quite untouched by tourism. Our hotel is in the older part of town - some lovely eating place and typical fishermen's hideouts! The early evening is particularly good for soaking up the atmosphere as you watch the sun set over the Bay of Rosas.

Day 3 At l'Escala

It's a lovely sunny day so we decide to spend most of it by the pool - it's in a great spot, built into the cliff overlooking the sea - and break only for lunch al fresco at a local bar. Later on in the day, we take the bikes out along the coast - well, we need to feel we've been a bit energetic!

Day 4 l'Escala to Baseia

The cycling today is simply lovely and full of contrasts at every turn. The first few miles take you along sandy pine tracks which run right by the sea - the smell is just gorgeous and so very Mediterranean. It's then on through a little fishing village before heading off through the Aiguamolls Nature Reserve - if you're keen on birds, this will be one of THE highlights of your trip. The old town of Castello d'Empuries makes a good stopping off point too - lovely cathedral and good choice for lunch. The final stretch takes you through paddy fields and feels quite surreal! It seems a million miles away from anything usually associated with Spain - it's more like the hinterland of Vietnam! And, to cap it all, we're caught out by a tropical thunderstorm!

Day 5 At Baseia

Amparo's farmhouse, where we're staying, is in a totally rural setting and is in complete contrast to the other places we've been on this trip. After breakfast (including freshly laid hens' eggs!) we decide to take the bikes off through the country lanes and across to Figueras and the world-famous Salvador Dali museum. Whilst you might not appreciate much of what Dali created, you cannot help but be in awe of his vision and imagination. The town itself is quite pleasant too - although do bear in mind that this is 'real' Spain so shops close from 1pm-5pm!

Day 6 Baseia to Castell d'Emporda

Today we're heading off to Castel d'Emporda which we've been told is quite special. Phil is feeling a bit restless as England are playing in the World Cup out in Korea so we've made a pact that we'll try and get to somewhere with a television for the 3pm kick-off! Today's cycling is again quite different from the pervious sections in that it's very much a village-to-village route. Each has it's own charm, but some are incredibly pretty with very few people and hardly any traffic.

You can see Castel d'Emporda for quiet a while before you actually get there. Perched above the Emporda valley, the situation is simply stunning. We thought it was going to be quite a climb up, but we did it in less than five minutes (this may have been to do with kick-off time fast approaching!). The hotel is a converted castle and just oozes atmosphere and intrigue. It's the sort of place just made for exploring! Later on, we meet up with Albert, the owner, for a couple of drinks on the terrace, and he talks us through what he's done so far and his plans for going forward. One thing is certain: this is a hotel with a future.

Day 7 At Castell d'Emporda

We're feeling incredibly unlucky today as we're in one of the most idyllic spots in Europe, with a gorgeous pool at our disposal, and it's not stopped raining since we woke up! We linger over breakfast - it is quite special! - in the hope that the skies will clear, but it's not to be. We decide to head off into La Bisbal to see what's on offer. If you're interested in art or antiques, you can happily enjoy mooching around the studios for a couple of hours.

After a tapas lunch, our prayers are answered, and the sun starts to burn through! We'll manage a swim after all!

Day 8 Castell d'Emporda to Calella de Palafrugell

Our first stop off point today is the lovely walled village of Peretallada - it's just gorgeous. Today is Sunday so lots of locals - all dressed for lunch - are wandering round the cobbled streets and hidden alleys. We have a cold beer - the hot weather has returned! - then continue on. We've planned to have an afternoon on the beach back at Calella today so opt for the shortest of the routes provided. As it's the weekend, the little villages we pass through are sleepy even by rural Spanish standards - but it's brilliant for cycling!

Day 9 Return home

Calella, by contrast, is a popular resort with the Spanish, and Sunday is when many of them take the family to the beach. It's got a lively, happy feel to it - but is no way brash and touristy. We spot the other Headwater cyclists enjoying a seafood lunch at one of the many open air eating places and decide to join them As we order a second bottle of chilled wine, we all agree it's the perfect end to a fabulous week.

Find out more about this holiday

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