The Headwater Blog

I first went on holiday to Andalucia in the year 2000 and made the mistake of going to the Costa Del Sol. I had always wanted to go to Andalucia and after leaving a job in Healthcare, which I had been in for 31 years; I booked a one way ticket to Malaga.

After 5 days on the Costa I decided it wasn’t for me and took to the mountains, which I instantly fell in love with. Eventually I reluctantly returned to England but frequently went back to Andalucia whenever I had the opportunity.

Since 2004 I have been guiding the Highlights of Andalucia trip for Headwater. During the 10 day trip we visit wonderful cities, do some fantastic walking, eat in some of the best restaurants and stay in superb hotels.

We begin the trip in the vibrant city of Seville and on the first night we eat in a very traditional restaurant just round the corner from the bullring. In the words of one of our guests “If this is a taste of things to come I am going to enjoy this trip”…and he did!

The next day the city is brought alive by one of two specialist guides (mother and daughter). Their respective father and grandfather was one of the first guides in Seville. He is now 92 and still goes to the April Ferria at least once!

Our first walk is in the Sierra Norte on the outskirts of Cazalla de la Sierra, hunting ground of the King of Spain. When we first walked through the narrow streets of this pueblo blanco the locals came out and stood on their doorsteps wondering who these crazy people were. Now it’s accepted that we turn up every two weeks and even the local bar that used to be frequented by men only now has a designated female toilet!

Onto our next city, Cordoba where our hotel is so close to the Mesquita you can almost touch it. After a quick wash and brush up it’s off to the Bodegas Campos, reputed to be the best restaurant in Cordoba. Set in an old bodega this restaurant has been visited by the rich and famous including Queen Sofia and the famous bullfighter Curro Romero. This is always a night to remember though there have been one or two of our guests who didn’t remember getting home!!

After savoring the delights of Cordoba we set off for Zuheros. A pueblo blanco stunningly set in the mountainside where you can still see the local farmers walking through the village with their donkeys. After shopping in the local supermarket for our picnics and collecting our bread from the local panaderia we set off up the hillside on a spectacular walk through the gorge. Despite being a little weary at the end of the walk we have never failed to make it up the hill to the bar where the local cruz campo beer goes down a treat.

Ubeda and Baeza, two architecturally beautiful cities, declared World Heritage sites in 2003, will not disappoint. Nor will the visit to the Cazorla Natural Park; the largest Natural Park in Spain.

Our final stop is Granada where no one can fail to enjoy the magic of the Alhambra Palace; Spain’s most visited ancient monument. We get a sneak preview the night before our visit as we sit on the terrace of our very special restaurant, sipping Fino under the stars, admiring what must be one of the most beautiful buildings in the world.

Despite this part of Spain being only a stones throw from the “Costa”, it could easily be a million miles away. For me it is a great privilege to share what I now consider to be my second home with so many wonderful people.

Come and join us, I promise you that you won’t be disappointed.

Post added by Val Edwards, Headwater guide

FAO: All Loire Gastronomic Cycling and Chateaux of the Loire Cycling guests:

So you’ve decided to cycle into Blois on your rest day at Chitenay… A relatively easy journey along country roads through the Foret de Russy, and a spectacular entrance into the city along the stone bridge rebuilt in 1945. Pause for a second on the bridge and take a
panoramic photo of the city, with its skyline pierced by the three spires of the Eglise St Nicholas.

Now what should we visit first?…The castle and the Francois 1st staircase? Or maybe the old quarter with it’s 16th century buildings??

Why not consider a visit to a little known wonder of this beautiful city?

For many of our visitors to the Loire, the region is a living history of the Second World War. Numerous examples spring to mind: A stay at the Chateau de Chissay which housed German officers in the Cher region (some of whom inscribed their names on the walls of the castle); a visit to the Grande Gallerie of Chenonceaux castle, formerly in Occupied France, whose south door provided a route to Vichy France; or a quiet chat (in French) with Madame Tessier at Tessier vineyards during a wine tasting whose opening greeting to me was “It wasn’t the same during the war you know….”

The city of Blois was devastated by aerial bombardment, and the region was very active in resisting the occupying forces. The Musée de la Résistance in the Place de la Grève is a testament to the heroics of the men and women of the Résistance, to those who brought aid by air, and to the effects that the Occupation had on France as a country and on the department of the Loir et Cher.

Some big picture exhibits, but mostly material directly related to local events, in particular the small groups set up under the auspices of the S.O.E. (Special Operations Executive), who were supplied from the air by the RAF.

So for those of you who remember the broadcasts to the Maquis during the war on the BBC and who often wondered what those cryptic messages meant, here’s a sample from one of the exhibits:

“The electricity will be cut 3 times” was decoded as “Three aircraft are bringing supplies” and the reply from the Maquisards was:
“Peu de menthe, assez de citron” — “Send us few guns, but loads of ammunition”.

One of the most moving, but very simple exhibits is that of a rusty machine gun, with the symbol of a dove and the inscription: “Nothing is more beautiful that a rusty firearm”…….

The cost - a measly 3 euros!!

Post added by John Ashby- Headwater representative in the Loire region of France

Six bottles of your favourite wine from a six-night holiday, free to take home…*

Sound good? Well you need to sample our Fruits of the Forest holiday, set in the peaceful Poitou Charentes…

You will be treated to twelve or more wines of delightful quality and character during the Fruits of the Forest six-night independent walking holiday.

At le Moulin, our base for the holiday, the evenings begin with aperitifs-at-seven when delightful white wines of distinction are served, mostly from local family vineyards.

Evening meals are accompanied by good quality red wines from well known, mostly French and occasionally Spanish, producing regions.

A courtesy fridge gives you the opportunity to try some lovely local rosé wines – ideal after a good walk and for relaxing by the pool on a hot afternoon. The courtesy fridge also contains plenty of bottled beer and some very fine clear refreshing Normandy ciders as well as soft drinks of various types.

Though…Fruits of the Forest walking holidays are not just a bucolic wine fest. Apart from the celebrated hospitality of le Moulin, the splendid walks offered by Headwater, are interesting and varied in idyllic countryside where there are hardly any other tourists to be seen.

There are myriads of wild flowers, including several species of wild orchid, oodles of birds and butterflies (some quite exotic) as well as a variety of other wild creatures to be seen. The region is full of character with numerous features of historic, cultural and natural interest.

Click for more information about Fruits of the Forest

Post added by Peter Roche – your host on Fruits of the Forest Walking Holidays